About 2 months ago, my family and I along with a few family friends, went on a trip to the village of Bario in Sarawak.
Bario is a small village in the interior region of Sarawak, relatively cut off from our closely interconnected, familiar world. I say relatively cut off because getting there requires taking a separate Twin Otter journey from Miri, the phone signal is limited only to one provider (even then you are considered lucky if you have reception), Internet is only available in the e-centre, and material goods have to be flown in, again by little Twin Otter planes.
But although it is a small, relatively isolated village, the place is not to be considered prehistoric at all. There're nice brick houses and buildings dotting the village here and there, a string of shop lots as their market (known as
Tamu), and a large church. People go around by four wheel drives and motorcycles, and they usually dress in clothes that are similar to what urbanites might wear. In the longhouse I stay at, there were televisions and bathroom facilities.
The people here are of the Kelabit tribe, one of the indigenous tribes living in Malaysia. If you trace down their roots, the villagers here are, in one or the other, related to each other - even if they belong to a separate longhouse. Such tight-knit relations might explain why despite not being as interconnected with the "outside world", so to speak, as most cities are, they are still very much interconnected in their little village. Everyone knows each other, or at the very least, knows of each other, and everyone knows the little events that go on - births, weddings, deaths.
As hinted earlier, most people would be staying in longhouses, each of which is home to a particular family, and could be considered a mini-village on its own. The longhouse I stayed in was Bario Asal, its literal translation would mean "Original Bario". It makes sense, because apparently that was the first longhouse from which the other longhouses branched out.
The "head" of the longhouse was
Tepuq (a respectful form of address for elderly ladies) named Sinah Rang. Tepuq's husband passed away a while ago, and since then she is considered the head of the longhouse. She has such a huge, genuine, sincere heart for her visitors, taking our family in and really treating us as though we were her own. And she's really spunky and entrepreneurial as well! Bario Asal has become a sort of eco-tourism homestay, where visitors can come and experience living in a longhouse. During her pastime, she makes jewellery, selling these to visitors, tourists, and whomever. And she's constantly learning and doing new things, such as learning English from
Project Whee so that she could communicate better with non-Malaysian visitors. What's perhaps amazing about it all is that she just celebrated her 70th birthday, but she has so much energy and verve to do all this!
The people here generally live to a ripe old age. Tepuq's mother-in-law is still staying in the longhouse, and she's still pretty agile - physically and mentally. I had a really funny encounter with her. I've been chatting with her and just hanging out with her for a few days. And on one of my last days in Bario, she discovered that I actually wasn't one of her great-granddaughters and that I was actually Chinese, haha!
Our trip to Bario intersected with the Christmas period / month, so a lot of the children and their children are back in the longhouse. The longhouse was pretty much filled with children from young toddlers to older teens. It was pretty understandable that great-grandma would have gotten me mixed up as one of her kin.
Access to other parts of the longhouse is pretty unrestricted, in that you could walk about and talk to anyone you wish (of course, in the communal areas, not in the bedrooms and such). I chatted with some of the other family members, and through the conversations, I gathered little bits of information about their lives. These are going to sound scattered, but I want to jot them down, to remember.
Political
Politics didn't naturally come into the conversation when I was chatting with the villagers, so I wouldn't say I know much about the political sentiments of the village. So I would advise to read the following with a pinch of salt, because I can't say I know enough to have gained accurate insights about the role of the government in the village.
I can say that the government is helping a fair bit in their agricultural projects. There were some signs posted around the paddy fields which show that some of them, at least, government-funded, and that most of the technology used (seeds, equipment) are provided by the government.
However, there was apparently a huge mega-hydroelectric dam that cost the government so much money to build, and in the end it didn't even work. Finally, the villagers had to pool resources and build their own dam.
Socio-Economic
A lot of the children (i.e. the generation born in the '50s-'70s) has moved out of the longhouse and stayed in the bigger cities like Miri or Kuching. And their children are based there too. So the older generation (i.e. the generation born in the '10s - '40s) are the ones staying in the longhouses. This wasn't hugely obvious to us at first, because lots of families are visiting during the Christmas period. But I'd imagine it gets really quiet and even lonesome, which is why it's great that Tepuq Sinah Rang, and a few of the other longhouses decide to open up as homestay places.
Nonetheless, there is also the issue of land ownership. The older folk feel great pride in their land, and having inherited it from generations, I feel they are quite attached to it and don't want to sell it off. However, there isn't really anyone to help them work the land. So those who can afford it would hire Indonesian workers. It's quite pricey for them, according to the auntie I was talking to. Because they only work for certain seasons, and the older folk have to pay for the workers' expenses and their salary. Those who can't afford it, then, would have to work the land on their own.
Cultural
Most of the people in Bario are Christian. They attend the church planted by the SIB church. In fact, each longhouse has a sort of chapel nearby, and each chapel has a pastor taking care of that longhouse. During our stay, the pastor organized carol-singing and prayers in each section of the longhouse. It was really beautiful, hearing and singing familiar Christmas hymns in the Kelabit language.
Kelabit people change their names a few times during their lifetime. They change their names after marriage, after their first child, and I believe after their first grandchild as well. One of their traditions is to wear heavy earrings, which cause them to have long dangly ears. Some of the traditional accessories they wear is this necklace which is usually beaded with gemstones. They are often in bright and contrasting colours, with the centrepiece usually the biggest in size. It's supposed to be like a necktie type thing, worn for special occasions. And they also wear a headdress type thing that is woven out of long beads as well. It's really heavy; Sinah Rang showed me the one she made herself.
Other things my family and I did there: -
We went up Prayer Mountain, which is a bit challenging considering it started raining halfway through, and we were positively soaked and shivering by the time we reached the chapel. We didn't have a guide with us, which is actually really dangerous, and which really contributed to our folly: we thought we reached the peak of the mountain because we saw a little chapel set up there; so we went back to the longhouse, and it was only then that we were told that we actually have not reached the peak at all.
We also visited the Salt Spring, where underground saltwater flows out. There was a little hut set up there as well, to "harvest" the salt from the water. The little salt production house was a little run down to be honest, and obtaining the salt from the saltwater was actually not easy. Talking to some of the workers from another longhouse, they said it was really tough work. They had a few large tanks for boiling and vaporizing the water, and they had to continuously watch over the fire so that it wouldn't go out. And for that they have to sacrifice their sleep and energy looking after the fire. This wasn't a steady job for them, they only do it periodically if they need the extra cash to top off for the month.
I really really loved Bario. I may not see myself living there, being a proud KL-ite, but I do love the virginal lands, the dramatic mountain ranges, the quiet, idyllic life, the community of people who take you as their own. And I just pray that God will continue to watch over this land, the lovely people here.