Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 6, 2017

Trekking through Bangkok - 2017

Loooooooooong overdue post. (And picture-heavy, too).

The Startrackers (The Star's graduate trainees) and I took a trip to Bangkok together last September - and here are some stories and pics.

When I first set foot into the working world officially, I was apprehensive. What are people really like in an office environment? You hear things about office politics, and you wonder how much of it is true. 

But these girls made working life not only fun, but as something to look forward to. Yep, what you do at work matters, the nature of your job scope matters. But who you're surrounded by matters too. And these ladies -  Aisyah, Natalie, Lina, Michelle, Su Hsien, Rowena (plus Melanie, who couldn't make it for the trip!) - they are supportive and caring, always there to offer advice, a shoulder to cry on, any form of help and support they can give, or lame jokes to brighten up your day. They genuinely rejoice to see you do well in your job or in your personal life, and they are there when the odds seem to be stacked against you. 

I'm so thankful to God that He's placed each one of them in my life :)

And I'm glad that we got to take a trip to Bangkok together.

DAY 1: 


- We flew into Don Mueang Airport, Bangkok
- Checked into Restiny Hostel at Ratchatewi Road. Very nice establishment, and the staff there are really generous. 
- We went for dinner nearby at Faridah Fartanee, it's a halal restaurant so that's great for Muslim travelers. 
- Later, we marched on to Pratunam Market for a look see, look, see. 

DAY 2: 



There's a reason why Thailand is a popular tourist destination. They've all sorts of quirky places to visit. We rented a van for the seven of us to take us around some sights in Khao Yai (altogether about 3600 baht). 


- We stopped by a chocolate factory, which sells premium chocs. 



- There was some random B&B place (?) next to it, and there were goats. 


- Next we went to Chokchai Farm. Hahaha, to be honest, I found it slightly odd...? Like it's essentially a farm, where cows are milked - how can this turn into such a profitable empire? But if you watch the introductory video at the beginning of the tour you'd understand why. From this one product, milk, there were a whole load of business units branching out from that product. It's fascinating! That's how enterprising and creative the business owners are. 





After lunch, we went to PB Valley. We didn't do the wine-tasting tour thing, just walked around and snapped some shots. 


- We then hopped into the van and went to The Bloom, which is a sort of flower garden.




And I guess if you wanna see Europe in Thailand (lol), one can always journey to Primo Piazza - where there are alpacas. (The highlight of the Khao Yai trip). 




Milk tea is very yums. It went for about 20-25 baht. We had dinner at Pe Aor, where they had delish tom yum noodles. 


And of course, we ended the day by playing Jenga in the hostel. 

DAY 3: 


Hot blazing days are always good for a trip to the temple. In our case, we took the opportunity of the toasty temperatures to visit Wat Arun. It's named after the Hindu god Aruna, often personified as the rising sun (according to Wiki). The temple sits on the Chao Phraya riverbank, and apparently it had existed since at least the 17th century. 

We heard that there is a dress code for tourists visiting the temples - but perhaps it wasn't really enforced, or maybe they're chill about it so long as it's not too revealing. I saw people wearing shorts and it was fine. 


- We took a river boat there. I don't remember the price now, it should be around 40-80 baht? 


- Then we went shopping at Siam Square. There was some really nice stuff for cheap there. Opposite was Siam Paragon and Siam Centre, where there was some nice stuff for not-so-cheap. (really not so cheap). 



Our journey then took us to Ratchada Rot Fai night market, where there was lots to eat and drink and shop, but nowhere to sit. 


                                             

DAY 4: 

Last full day in Bangkok - and was able to squeeze time to meet a dear friend named Guy, whom I knew from iFocus Durham days. We went around the hot Chatuchak Market, and there was so much to see - it's a very eclectic selection. Thai massages, milk teas, clothes, bags. And I think there was a stall selling only plastic bags.



Guy and I basically just chilled at the park after a while, talking about life and Thai politics (which is never a dull topic). 


And we spent the evening in the hostel, washing up and gearing up to go to the airport. We spent the night there, but couldn't get proper sleep because it was too darn cold. 

---

It wasn't my first time to Thailand or Bangkok. But that's the fun thing about traveling - it's a different experience each time. And I think what made this one so special were the companions. I had 6 other girls who are genuinely super fun and chill, and whom I'm really comfortable with. The late night chats (the sharing sessions), the laughter and jokes, and even the sad moments / pains in our lives that we got to chat through - I'm grateful for them. 

Yep, the sights and sounds of Bangkok city were great. But what was even greater was being able to share some time with you girls. :) 

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Storygram: Mrs Pang Wu Nan


(Photo taken in front of a shop in Ipoh)

No one can correctly guess her age. Old, decrepit, and neglected, the most accurate answer people can come up with is that she had lived for a long time. A very long time. Fault lines plague her face, spotty blotches dotted the walls of skin which hang loose and occasionally peel themselves free from the prison of her body. She is bulky and sturdy, with flesh bulging out from her purple-flowered samfu. She is an anachronism, an ancient relic that-should-no-longer-be, at odds with the new, shiny, technology-clad crowd that clusters around her. Her hair, permed and set in the style made famous in the 1960s, and the traditional jade bracelet that encircles her wrist, only serve to bring this contrast out even more. Yet, despite the state we find her in, she bears with her still the lingering vestiges of a glorious bygone era, with a spirit of quiet dignity, respectability, and perhaps nostalgia of simple and beautiful times.
Mrs Pang is a stalwart presence in Ah Wah’s coffee shop, or as the locals call it, kopitiam, which has stood overlooking the brown Gombak River since 1952. Since the time Mr Pang passed away from lung cancer, she is Ah Wah’s tenant living in the small, dilapidated, leaky room upstairs. Patrons of the place see her as a permanent landmark of the place, and like all permanent landmarks, her presence is rarely - if at all -  registered. Situated at the far corner of the kopitiam, next to the hawker stall selling dim sum and steamed buns, she sits on a plastic green chair, occupying a coffee-stained table. Amidst grey crinkly Sin Chew dailies and with an alley cat slumbering at her feet, she never moves, her looming figure radiating both isolation and familiarity. Her eyes stare straight ahead looking at goodness-knows-what, as empty and vacant like lonely windows of an abandoned building…
Three people sat at the table next to her. After having exhausted the topics of grandchildren, politics, and the appropriate wateriness of half-boiled eggs (“I always tell Ah Wah don’t cook it so long” is Xin’s favourite refrain), they settle into a subject of discussion that intrigues and infuriates them: what were they to do about Mrs Pang?
            “What do you think about her?” Johnny asks his companions.
“I dunno what to think,” Xin starts, but before Johnny could reply to this, Xin continues “she’s okay lah as a person… but she don’t talk a lot, just sit there quietly only. Want to be friends also cannot. One time I ask her ‘Hello, Mrs Pang, how are you today?’ but she just sit there diam-diam.’” Xin huffs. He is quickly balding, but this was overly compensated by the thick, tiger-like eyebrows crowning his forehead. He likes to think he is a self-made man now that he is a successful entrepreneur dealing with big, important contracts.
“Yes, but I think she was just thinking abou-“
“So rude you know. I think because she so used to being rich, don’t know how to treat people.”
“Hmm maybe,” Johnny acquiesces, trying to be polite despite having been interrupted. “But I think she’s grieving over her husband’s death.”
Wah, I tell you... so rude. Never listen to people,” Xin ploughs on, his eyes fixated on the figure of Mrs Pang.
“Yes, like I said,” says Johnny, starting to get irritated. “She’s grieving for her husband.”
“’Grieving’,” Xin scoffs. “You and your English education. Aiyo. Just say “cry” lah. Always using bombas-teek words. Summore don’t use it correctly half the time.”
Just at that moment, black flip-flops squeak on the brownish-blue tiled floor, signifying Ah Wah’s arrival and subsequent delivery of the kopi-O they ordered. “Nah,” he says to the group. A small pile of one-ringgit notes exchanges hands, and Ah Wah retrieves the change from the fanny-pack secured around his waist before depositing it on the circular table. The group continues staring at Mrs Pang, not realising that they had been short-changed.
Johnny feels the heat creeping up to his cheeks as he mulls over Xin’s previous biting remark. Talking always came hard to him, and it always seems that he was saying the wrong thing. He had been educated in a cluster school in Kuala Lumpur in his youth, but whilst he scrupulously consumed the Oxford Dictionary when he was a child (upon his teacher’s suggestion), he was not fastidious enough about using words accurately. Or perhaps, his anxious disposition and half-cooked ideas made it such that his sentences come out as awkwardly constructed as poorly-planned train projects common in certain quarters in the world.
But he is determined to prove Xin wrong. Feeling the rush of adrenaline swelling within him, a sensation he associates with making grand speeches, he drinks some coffee to calm his nerves. Of course, the process is a rather long one: he first pours a portion of it onto its saucer before swirling it and lifting the saucer to his lips. He is now ready to make his speech, the speech about Mrs Pang that he has built up all morning by painstaking pieces.
“From what I know,” he begins, “well, from what I heard, she’s had a fascinating past. I think she’s lived a hard life… she’s had to live through the Japanese occupation, and I heard from someone, her mother was sent to a concentration camp. Didn’t come back. After the war was over, she went to a teaching college and she met her future-husband there.”
Xin grunts in acknowledgement. Warmed by the fact that it isn’t a total dismissal of his efforts, Johnny continues. “It’s sad though. The school burnt down and there just weren’t enough funds to build it again. They had three children, so you could imagine they had quite a struggle getting the money to pay for everything. So they started a shop selling cloths – you remember how it was back in the day – and managed to get the three of them all through to university.”
The group falls silent. Johnny is caught up in his own narrative now. “They all went abroad, left her and her husband here. In a way, it’s their fault. They were the ones who told them to leave for elsewhere. I mean. It’s not their fault. But, you know what I mean.”
Xin makes no sound. Johnny continues anyway. “So what if she’s old? So what if she doesn’t do anything? She had been great once, wasn’t she? She had helped the nation once. I mean. Maybe she didn’t help in a big way, but she was a teacher, she taught students. I always thought it so sad that she gave up most of her pension for her husband’s operation. She nagged him to death – I mean, not to death, but you know, it’s just a figure of speech – but in some strange way she loved him.”
By now, Johnny is disconcerted by Xin’s unusual silence. “I think… I mean Ah Wah… He should let her stay upstairs… There are nice community homes… put her there, and preserve her… he could send her there… of course the cost of rehabilitation is too high… But it shouldn’t matter… oh but of course, this is only if Ah Wah really doesn’t want her to stay with him… But I think he should…”
Aiyo, stop it lah, you and your words and your fancy ideas, trying to act like some professor. Are you going to do anything about her?” Xin’s words cuts through Johnny’s monologue, his head tilted backwards in exasperation, his palm looking like it was about to present a slap on Johnny’s face. Johnny keeps silent under the gaze of his friend who is working to demolish the speech had made.
            “All you want to do is just go round and round in circles,” Xin complains. “Go straight to the point! Don’t keep the conversation to yourself. Nah look, Sun Yi didn’t get to say anything also.”
Indeed, Sun Yi had not said a thing. Sun Yi has very plain features, looking like any other ordinary Malaysian, with eyes that suggest knowledge and understanding, but with lips that suggest immobility and silence.  The third friend is listening and watching with the attention of a half-curious spectator, passive and reticent as a ghost.
The other two look at Sun Yi, waiting for a speech that would not come. “Well,” Johnny starts again. “I just think that given Mrs Pang’s history, Ah Wah should just let her continue staying upstairs…”
Adui,” Xin is bristling. “You know how much is the cost ah? All these things cost money, you know. So why would Ah Wah do it? Not that Ah Wah share history with her, or that she pretty to look at now…”
“The cost of rehabilitation,” Johnny is using words in a strange way again, “is indeed high. But certainly in historical and aesthetic terms,” poor Johnny, not in control of his words, “she proves invaluable. I’d like to think Mrs Pang had a part in shaping his history, giving him tuition lessons all those years. And she’s a bit worn-out now, but she used to be quite the looker in her glory days.”
Ah Wah approaches their table. “You want to order some pau maybe?”
“Eh, sorry boss, not hungry,” Xin jokes in genuine jollity.
 “Eh, come lah, I need money to survive too you know. I’m just trying to serve you.”
“Ah okay lah, okay lah,” Xin says. “Just tapau some kaya pau, I’ll bring some back for my wife and kids.”
“Don’t want to share with me and Sun Yi?” pouts Johnny.
“Bah. You can feed yourself,” Xin shoots back.
Mrs Pang shifted ever so slightly in her seat, almost imperceptibly.
“We’re forgetting one thing in our entire conversation,” Johnny points out.
“Ah Wah is a great fellow,” Xin cuts him off, not even noticing he was doing so. “I’m sure he’s doing the right thing.”
Johnny muses this for a second. “I’m not sure… I don’t quite trust him.”
“If Ah Wah wants her to go, she should just leave. She should just be grateful with what he has given her so far.”
Johnny gets frustrated. “Stop interrupting me! Can you listen? Can you listen to reason for one second?”
“You call me crazy ah?” Xin challenges.
“No, I’m just saying you should think…”
“You calling me stupid now lah!”
“No, no, can you just listen?”
Xin says “Can we stop fighting about this? I don’t want this to come between our friendship. We’ve been friends for fifty-eight years. Let’s stop this.”
There are many things Johnny wants to say. But he just let the words drip on his tongue, slip through his lips, and fall noiselessly down onto the dirty floor.
“I don’t want to fight you. But I want you to listen,” Johnny says instead.
Xin had already made his peace with the first phrase of the sentence, and thus neglected the second part in favour of staring at Mrs Pang again.
“What an eyesore,” Xin says.
Nah, Xin,” Ah Wah arrives, bringing Xin his kaya buns. He chuckles, hearing what Xin says. “Yeah lor, she’s been getting in the way. I’m thinking of renovating the shop-lot, and I can’t let her stay there lah, she takes up too much space, and she cannot do anything also.”
“Eh, you want to renovate ah?” Xin asks Ah Wah in surprise. “I like your kopitiam like this. It’s like your own small world, you know.”
“Yeah lah, but times are changing mah. I need to be competitive. Sorry ah if my prices go up a little bit. Difficult now lah.”
“Sure, sure,” Xin says mildly, his eyes zeroing in on Mrs Pang again. “I’m happy to help.”
Ah Wah bustles off, needing to draw up bills under the supervision of his wife, Rosie.
“Huh. Whatever you say now,” Xin addresses Johnny, “won’t be any good. Ah Wah will do what he wants, why bother saying anything?”
Johnny reflects on this. “I don’t know. I guess I’m saying. Because I’m scared, one day Mrs Pang would be me.”
It is the only thing Johnny said during the whole conversation that struck through the haze in which Xin has enveloped himself. But Xin was practiced in the art of haze-patching.
“Okay lah, I go first,” says Xin, getting up to leave. “Good talk.”
“Ah yeah okay,” Johnny says. “I think I’ll see you around, Sun Yi.”
Sun Yi nods, and both of them left.
The next time the three meet up, Mrs Pang Wu Nan is gone. Ah Wah says that it had been no use dragging it out, that she had been an interference to his plans to expand his kopitiam. Quietly and firmly, without anyone knowing, he had asked her to leave his shop, indifferent to the shambles and rubble to which he had reduced her life.
There is now a space in Ah Wah’s kopitiam where the great Mrs Pang Wu Nan used to sit. All that remains in her usual seat is the old newspapers and the old alley cat. No more 1960s haircut, no more purple-flowered samfu, no more peeling skin flakes and vacant eye-windows.

Johnny says it is a shame, it’s a shame. The frequent patrons too would shake their heads empathetically, perhaps they would go a step further, cursing Ah Wah for being so cruel. But they wouldn’t do anything. Conversations would remain as that: conversations. At the end of the day, they would still come back to Ah Wah, anaesthetized by the haze arising from their kopi, fresh kaya buns, and forgetfulness.



To read more: The Big Read: Penang - Whose Version of Heritage?

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Beautiful Bario

About 2 months ago, my family and I along with a few family friends, went on a trip to the village of Bario in Sarawak.

Bario is a small village in the interior region of Sarawak, relatively cut off from our closely interconnected, familiar world. I say relatively cut off because getting there requires taking a separate Twin Otter journey from Miri, the phone signal is limited only to one provider (even then you are considered lucky if you have reception), Internet is only available in the e-centre, and material goods have to be flown in, again by little Twin Otter planes.

But although it is a small, relatively isolated village, the place is not to be considered prehistoric at all. There're nice brick houses and buildings dotting the village here and there, a string of shop lots as their market (known as Tamu), and a large church. People go around by four wheel drives and motorcycles, and they usually dress in clothes that are similar to what urbanites might wear. In the longhouse I stay at, there were televisions and bathroom facilities.

The people here are of the Kelabit tribe, one of the indigenous tribes living in Malaysia. If you trace down their roots, the villagers here are, in one or the other, related to each other - even if they belong to a separate longhouse. Such tight-knit relations might explain why despite not being as interconnected with the "outside world", so to speak, as most cities are, they are still very much interconnected in their little village. Everyone knows each other, or at the very least, knows of each other, and everyone knows the little events that go on - births, weddings, deaths.

As hinted earlier, most people would be staying in longhouses, each of which is home to a particular family, and could be considered a mini-village on its own. The longhouse I stayed in was Bario Asal, its literal translation would mean "Original Bario". It makes sense, because apparently that was the first longhouse from which the other longhouses branched out.

The "head" of the longhouse was Tepuq (a respectful form of address for elderly ladies) named Sinah Rang. Tepuq's husband passed away a while ago, and since then she is considered the head of the longhouse. She has such a huge, genuine, sincere heart for her visitors, taking our family in and really treating us as though we were her own. And she's really spunky and entrepreneurial as well! Bario Asal has become a sort of eco-tourism homestay, where visitors can come and experience living in a longhouse. During her pastime, she makes jewellery, selling these to visitors, tourists, and whomever. And she's constantly learning and doing new things, such as learning English from Project Whee so that she could communicate better with non-Malaysian visitors. What's perhaps amazing about it all is that she just celebrated her 70th birthday, but she has so much energy and verve to do all this!

The people here generally live to a ripe old age. Tepuq's mother-in-law is still staying in the longhouse, and she's still pretty agile - physically and mentally. I had a really funny encounter with her. I've been chatting with her and just hanging out with her for a few days. And on one of my last days in Bario, she discovered that I actually wasn't one of her great-granddaughters and that I was actually Chinese, haha!

Our trip to Bario intersected with the Christmas period / month, so a lot of the children and their children are back in the longhouse. The longhouse was pretty much filled with children from young toddlers to older teens. It was pretty understandable that great-grandma would have gotten me mixed up as one of her kin.

Access to other parts of the longhouse is pretty unrestricted, in that you could walk about and talk to anyone you wish (of course, in the communal areas, not in the bedrooms and such). I chatted with some of the other family members, and through the conversations, I gathered little bits of information about their lives. These are going to sound scattered, but I want to jot them down, to remember.

Political

Politics didn't naturally come into the conversation when I was chatting with the villagers, so I wouldn't say I know much about the political sentiments of the village. So I would advise to read the following with a pinch of salt, because I can't say I know enough to have gained accurate insights about the role of the government in the village.

I can say that the government is helping a fair bit in their agricultural projects. There were some signs posted around the paddy fields which show that some of them, at least, government-funded, and that most of the technology used (seeds, equipment) are provided by the government.

However, there was apparently a huge mega-hydroelectric dam that cost the government so much money to build, and in the end it didn't even work. Finally, the villagers had to pool resources and build their own dam.

Socio-Economic

A lot of the children (i.e. the generation born in the '50s-'70s) has moved out of the longhouse and stayed in the bigger cities like Miri or Kuching. And their children are based there too. So the older generation (i.e. the generation born in the '10s - '40s) are the ones staying in the longhouses. This wasn't hugely obvious to us at first, because lots of families are visiting during the Christmas period. But I'd imagine it gets really quiet and even lonesome, which is why it's great that Tepuq Sinah Rang, and a few of the other longhouses decide to open up as homestay places.

Nonetheless, there is also the issue of land ownership. The older folk feel great pride in their land, and having inherited it from generations, I feel they are quite attached to it and don't want to sell it off. However, there isn't really anyone to help them work the land. So those who can afford it would hire Indonesian workers. It's quite pricey for them, according to the auntie I was talking to. Because they only work for certain seasons, and the older folk have to pay for the workers' expenses and their salary. Those who can't afford it, then, would have to work the land on their own.

Cultural

Most of the people in Bario are Christian. They attend the church planted by the SIB church. In fact, each longhouse has a sort of chapel nearby, and each chapel has a pastor taking care of that longhouse. During our stay, the pastor organized carol-singing and prayers in each section of the longhouse. It was really beautiful, hearing and singing familiar Christmas hymns in the Kelabit language.

Kelabit people change their names a few times during their lifetime. They change their names after marriage, after their first child, and I believe after their first grandchild as well. One of their traditions is to wear heavy earrings, which cause them to have long dangly ears. Some of the traditional accessories they wear is this necklace which is usually beaded with gemstones. They are often in bright and contrasting colours, with the centrepiece usually the biggest in size. It's supposed to be like a necktie type thing, worn for special occasions. And they also wear a headdress type thing that is woven out of long beads as well. It's really heavy; Sinah Rang showed me the one she made herself.


Other things my family and I did there: -

We went up Prayer Mountain, which is a bit challenging considering it started raining halfway through, and we were positively soaked and shivering by the time we reached the chapel. We didn't have a guide with us, which is actually really dangerous, and which really contributed to our folly: we thought we reached the peak of the mountain because we saw a little chapel set up there; so we went back to the longhouse, and it was only then that we were told that we actually have not reached the peak at all.

We also visited the Salt Spring, where underground saltwater flows out. There was a little hut set up there as well, to "harvest" the salt from the water. The little salt production house was a little run down to be honest, and obtaining the salt from the saltwater was actually not easy. Talking to some of the workers from another longhouse, they said it was really tough work. They had a few large tanks for boiling and vaporizing the water, and they had to continuously watch over the fire so that it wouldn't go out. And for that they have to sacrifice their sleep and energy looking after the fire. This wasn't a steady job for them, they only do it periodically if they need the extra cash to top off for the month.

I really really loved Bario. I may not see myself living there, being a proud KL-ite, but I do love the virginal lands, the dramatic mountain ranges, the quiet, idyllic life, the community of people who take you as their own. And I just pray that God will continue to watch over this land, the lovely people here.